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Very useful video, you make it look so easy. Which marking knife would you recommend?
Liked the router depth-stop tip too!
Brendan
Thank you, Brendan.
The knife I’m using came from the Great British Tool Company, after I saw one first-hand at a woodworking show a few years ago.
I think mine is actually blackwood but that doesn’t appear to be available from the CHT website.
Ouch, a trifle expensive! I’d better stick with the stanley knife for now
Brendan
I did start out with a Japanese marking knife but, if I still have it somewhere then, I also remember breaking the tip of the blade at one point. Even after regrinding, it was never quite the same. Mine was either the 12mm or 15mm.
I’ve always called that joint a ship-lap though I’m pretty sure that isn’t always the proper term for it. I like how you use your miter saw. I have a sliding compound saw but I don’t often use it for woodworking. I originally purchased it for doing carpentry projects. The spacer tip is a good one. It took me a few messed up boards before I figured it out! Good video!
Thanks for your comment.
I’ve always found that most woodworking joints (not to mention tools) carry several different names, depending on where you are and who taught you, etc.
A lot of people overlook the mitre saw but I don’t seriously have the space for a decent-sized table saw and, with a bandsaw for ripping, it’s always worked well for me.
Another vote for the Tee halving joint here! I’ve always known the Shiplap joint as being what you get on Shiplap boards – two overlapping rebates, sort of a poorer tongue and groove joint.
For your videos have a look at ‘Serif Movieplus x5′, that’s what I use after much experimenting with different programs.
Same here – we’ve got a shed made with shiplap boarding. That stuff does seem to be cheaper to buy than T&G as well.
Thanks for the program recommendation. It looks quite cheap to buy but that’s probably because X6 is now available.