Coming Together

Just a bit of an update for you on how things are going, as I’m part way between completing the final glue-ups of these boards; making my way in and out of the workshop throughout the course of the weekend in order to remove one board from the clamps and then to insert another.

Crosscutting with a skil saw.

After loads of belt sanding to the boards of edge-jointed strips, I decided to crosscut one end clean and square with my skil saw and a 40t blade (each board is 400mm wide). This didn’t quite go as well as planned. It could be an issue with the blade (which is only a year old) or, maybe there’s something wrong with the saw because the cut was anything but straight and perfectly square. There were lumps and bumps where the saw jumped and I had to plane this out by hand. I might try finding some new brushes for this saw.

Crosscutting on the bandsaw.

These were then crosscut through my bandsaw. I should also mention that my circular saw (currently running backwards, after fitting a new capacitor) doesn’t have a T-slot or track and I do not own the crosscutting setup for it.

This worked really well and the results are looking good so far, even if those walnut borders aren’t quite as perfect as I was hoping.

Clamping the first one proved to be quite the challenge. With parts wanting to slide all over the place as I tightened the sash clamps, I decided to add wooden cauls to help keep each board flat at the ends.

Looking for walnut…

While the glue was drying, I started roughing out material for the two smaller boards I also have to make, which will finish at 300 x 200mm. Somewhere, in and amongst that pile, lies a length of 1Β½in thick walnut that I’ve held on to for years. It’s perfect for the 32mm thick borders on the two smaller boards.

My first video in this new series was uploaded late last night; hence the delay in publishing this post. You can view it below or, over on my YouTube channel and I welcome all thoughts and comments.

Thank you. πŸ™‚

6 thoughts on “Coming Together

  1. During glue-up, did the cauls keep the boards from sliding around? I have trouble with this. Sometimes I’ll leave boards long and drive and screw them together, remove the screws, add glue and then screw them back together, add clamps, etc. Not sure that would work in your situation, but I am curious how you deal with slippery glue saturated boards. Your project is looking good, nice band saw.

    1. Thanks, Jeff.

      Yes, the cauls definitely helped but then, I had trouble getting them just-tight-enough so that I could still slide the pieces for correct alignment. I covered them with parcel tape so that they don’t stick to the job.

      Your screws idea would work if I had left the pieces longer or wider – I’ll bear it in mind for future, thanks. πŸ™‚

  2. Went out over the week end to London (120miles) to visit a carpenter and he uses the same clamps as you (single handed and easy to operate, and soon I’ll be buying some) – but I have to ask (and I too own a bandsaw), but why use one when you can bet a finer cut with a table saw?
    I’m on a learning curve this month as usual, not criticising so please take it that way! also what glue are you using Olly (as I’m trying different polyurethane glues, on my hardwoods)!!
    Take care!

    1. Hi Steve,

      Ah, yes, they’re commonly known as solo clamps. The red ones came from Screwfix (I think they’re branded Cox) and are superior to the black ones from places like Axminster (in my opinion). I should really buy a few extra ones but I heard a couple of years ago that the quality of Screwfix’s clamps had gone downhill.

      My reason for using the bandsaw is briefly explained in part two… πŸ˜‰ But, I’ll tell you now anyway!

      Yes, you would get a better finish from a circular saw but mine doesn’t come with a mitre slot, T-slot or track and I don’t have the crosscutting attachment either (plus, that saw is currently running backwards…). Bandsaw blades have a thinner kerf (less wastage) and you can safely use a full length fence for support without the risk of kickback.

      I’m using Titebond II because it’s rate as safe for indirect food contact and Titebond III is also suitable for similar reasons. I’ve not come across any other brands (Evo-Stick, etc.) that are also appropriate for kitchen accessories.

      Thanks for your comment. Sounds like you had a good day out! πŸ™‚

      1. Hi Olly – good to hear from you and thanks for all the info (very useful)

        I’d heard that the Screwfit clamps are a bit naff although very affordable. I used a pair myself for a basin stand, where I glued the top together and found them useful as they supported the planks but the clamp itself is a bit basic..

        The glues, I tend to hate using pva but use cascamite, as PVA’s can leave a black line, and was told to try poly glues as they are transparent when dry in 15 minutes and you can scrape of the dry residue with a chisel – 15 mins is damn fast for a wood glue, non of that over night glueing on a hot dray!!!

        And yes I loved the trip to London! 2 hours in the car a excuse to pull over for a costa and a day of being given tools how cool!

        Thanks again!
        Steve πŸ™‚

      2. Yes, there are a lot of cheap clamps on the market and I do believe you are right to be wary (I’ve had my share). Car boot sales can be a good place to pick up G-clamps and things, sometimes, or so I’ve been told. Tomorrow’s post is likely to be one about sash cramps, ironically. πŸ˜‰

        I’ve used cascamite myself and it does have its advantages. In most situations though, I like to be able to squeeze the bottle and get on with the job. PVAs tend to dry clear in conditions that are above freezing and glue storage is also important. PU glues can save you time and are supposed to be good outdoors. But, it turns your hands black if you’re not careful and sometimes, the excess glue can stain the surrounding timber if it’s not sealed.

        Thank you. πŸ™‚


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